Camping, hill climbing and other stupid ideas

Torres Del Paine National Park,

Southern Chile

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Having described the scenery around El Chalten as stunning it is hard to find the words to describe what we saw of the Torres del Paine National Park. I'll start with the jumping off point for the park, the small town of Puerto Natales.

It is here that people catch the bus to the park after kitting themselves out with sleeping bags, tents, waterproofs, food and anything else they might need. It is also where tour companies can book the hostels, or refugios as they are called in the park. When we went to do this however we were told that all refugios were fully booked for the next week and that the only option was to camp. After a few minutes of deliberation the decision was made. We wouldn't do the full 4 day trek as originally intended but just go for one night to see the main towers. We didn't think we would manage 4 days trekking and 4 nights in a tent. I don't mind holding my hands up to the fact that I'm just not that hardcore.

The bus took us into the national park and, after several photocall stops, we reached base camp. A couple of guys from our hostel decided to join us on our route which was great. As it turned out one was from Raleigh, North Carolina in the US where I lived as a baby and my brother was born, and the other was from Braintree in Essex, just round the corner from Colchester. Who says it's not a small world! Anyways we had a great laugh with them, despite nearly asking Niall the English guy to leave us when we found out he was just a baby at 20! Feeling old, me, nah!

Hi ho, hi ho.....

So off we all set, the guys with massive backpacks me with a small daypack (sometimes it's nice to be a girl). The sun was shining which made for beautiful views but also made it harder work. Layers were being stripped off left right and centre. We stopped for many photocalls and also to fill up our water bottles, with water fresh from the mountain springs. No need to bring all your water with you. At first we used the water purification tables but they turned the water a disgusting brown colour so in the end we decided to risk it, it couldn´t be any worse than London tap water after all, and we were fine. Deliciously clear, cold mountain spring water.

It took us about 2 hours and quite a few water stops to reach our campsite for the night where we dumped out bags and then continued onwards and upwards. As we clambered up for the last 45 mins over massive boulders, following a vague series of red dots on the larger rocks, we were silent. It was really hard work and we were all knackered. Brian the American reached the top first. His exclaimation of what he saw was enough to spur us all on. With my last step up I was greeted by such an amazing view that it literally took my breath away (what little I had left anyway!). It was absolutely staggering. The 3 towers in all their splendour complete with an aquamarine glacial lake at their feet. The photos just don't do it justice. The sun was shining, the sky was blue and the wind was calm. We were very lucky. We all sat up there for nearly 2 hours taking it all in. And of course taking the obligatory 100 photos! It was a beautiful place to be.

Once the sun had disappeared behind the granite towers we descended back to camp. It had been worth every single step, and more. Having said that the hot shower at the refugio was very welcome! I'm sure the boys would have welcomed one too but they weren't quite so lucky - their showers were freezing cold. Oops!

Pasta for dinner, surprise! The kitchen provided was no more than a closet big enough for a cooker and one person to stand in front of it. Even Jamie Oliver would have struggled to cook up a feast in there! Our pasta was, however, devoured very quickly along with a couple of cartons of wine that we had carried up there. A backpack is never too heavy for some wine. And a mountain should never be climbed without some, well that´s according t us non hardcore trekkers of course! It didn't even get dark until 10.30 but by 11.30 it was cold and we tucked ourselves up in our tent. Mik had very kindly given me the thicker of the sleeping bags we had hired.Despite being so thickI did however discover that mine had no zip,(much to the amusement of everyone else in the campsite as I swore quite vociforously about the people who had lent them!) but luckily I was still toasty - god bless M&S thermals! During the night I turned over to see Mik asleepwith his new hat pulled down as far as it would go, scarf and gloves on. I'm thinking he was a tad cold. Bless. We both survived though and I for one would be up for doing it again. I'm sure Mik will be too, once he has thawed out.

The next morning we walked back down to the bottom to catch the bus back to Puerto Natales where we rewarded ourselves with.......yes you guessed it, a massive steak.

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Cara