Thursday, July 28, 2005

Beautiful Laos

Luang Prabang is situated on a peninsular surrounded by the Mekong river creating a gorgeous setting for Laos's second largest city, with all it's 17,000 inhabitants! We found a guesthouse and for $7 a night we were quite pleased, although it didn't rival the room in Phnom Penh in terms of glamour!

It was evening when we arrived so we set out to take in the night market where they sell local handicrafts such as duvet covers, and table runners and all those things which I would usually get so excited about - but there were just so many, and all the same - literally. I managed to contain myself and not start shipping a load home to be unboxed in a year or so's time when I would no doubt think - what the hell did I buy that for. Besides I can't be buying nick-knacks when I need any extra space for clothes. For those of you interested (birds!) I now have 21 tops with me. I know that is a ridiculous amount and fellow travellers may scoff but at the end of the day as long as I can carry it all...!? Taking of which, we have only recently felt the need to actually use the proper straps of our backpacks instead of the over one shoulder easy option. I don't really know why they call it backpacking - it's not like you have to carry your bags very far at any one time. I could have bought a wheely bag (and been laughed at by all other travellers, mind) Still, it would mean I wouldn't now have one shoulder lower than the other. We have in fact both gained at least 5kg - in our luggage I hasten to add.

Anyway, I digress, back to Luang Prabang. Early on we discovered a place selling delicious noodle soups and so ate there most of the time, sometimes it saves disappointment and hassle if you go back to the same place, although you do feel a bit naughty/lazy for doing so. The main culinary influence throughout S.E. Asia is thai - which we obviously love, all others seem to be a combination of Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese, and which explains why you don't get many Laotian or Cambodian restaurants in the UK. Food has unsurprisingly been a big focus for us, in fact I think Mik has food as 1-6 of his top 10 best things about travelling. As long as you steer clear of the western stuff (oops I had pizza tonight!), and too much beer (not doing too well on that one either - it's the same price as a coke) you can actually lose a few pounds. Oh, and we came across a man with a small tressle table selling cake 'like your Mum makes it' so a few squares of banana cake haven't helped either.

A day of rain gave us the opportunity to catch up on our massages! Lao style is essentially the same as Thai massage from where I was lying but it did us a treat. Mik has been suffering with his back (all that backpacking) so I looked away while he grimaced with pain but he assures me it's good for him! No flea bites this time but we did come away with a mozzie bite a piece! The other thing this rainy day afforded us was time to visit the local barber. YES! The beard came off. I don't think I need say anymore except maybe, yippeee.......!


That's better! Even he looks happier.


The next 2 days were absolutely glorious so we spent the first one cycling around the area. Once you get out of the (small) cities it's even more stunning. Simple wooden houses filled with people living a very simple, and, I can only imagine stress free life - it certainly makes you think. Although having said that even some of the most basic, ratan shelters built on stilts have a TV in them so maybe they are more aware than we think? We visited a local market where Mik tried to find a pair of sunglasses having lost the arm off of his, but the selection was poor(what did we expect?) and either made him look someone off of Chips or Dynasty so he's still doing it Asian style with no eye protection. We cycled round the old town which is stunning, raced kids up the hills and visited a couple of temples.

All in all a fabulous day which, after all that exertion, was ended with a beer in hand whilst we watched the sun disappear behind the mountains and the Mekong. Oh and then some more food!

Just a note to all this beer drinking. Neither Mik nor myself are beer drinkers but we have been left little choice. Mik hasn't been able to track down any Black Panther stout recently and having tried only a couple of glasses of various local wines I have decided beer is the only option. Worst glass of vino so far - Lao wine - tastes like someone got some grape juice and mixed it with meths, and it smells like tequila - one sip was enough. Had thought I would try it after seeing others drinking it. I now realise the only reason it was consumed so quickly was because you couldn't stop or you would realise what you were doing to your stomach lining! So despite the fact that you can buy a bottle for 50p they can keep it. Ohh for a lovely bottle of Rioja......

The second day we headed for the nearby waterfalls. Over to Mik for that commentary

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