We're in Phnom Penh and we are loving it. It may have something to do with the fact that we are now both recovered from our colds, or it may be that this capital city has a really good vibe to it.
So, having found ourselves in the backpacker area of Phnom Penh we consulted our Lonely Planet and together with the couple we'd traveled up the Mekong with we went to suss out the recommended hotels. Now this popular area is located on the edge of a lake, many places have decks out on to the lake which are great for lazing around and taking in a sunset or two. So we tried these first. Andy and Klaire went first and were offered a double room for $3 (now that's what you call cheap) Now they have been traveling a lot longer than us and the room looked OK to them and they took it. We then asked and they said they didn't have a double room but could offer us a twin and move us to a double tomorrow - 'no problem' we said so I trundled off to check out the room while Mik watched the bags.
Now the room itself was fine, nice location on the lake but I took one look at the bathroom (this word is used in the loosest sense) and knew I couldn't stay here. Now it's not that I'm a snob (well maybe a little) but a toilet with no seat, which is on a wonky floor, and a shower attachment hanging off the wall do not a bathroom make! So I said a polite no thanks and then asked if he had any MORE EXPENSIVE rooms - bizarre concept I know - but anyways he didn't have any so we decided to look elsewhere. I also pointed out to Mik as I told him it was no good, that nowhere in our budget do we only have to pay $3 for a hotel room. He agreed!
A couple of doors down was a place that looked good, I popped in for a look at a room and was shown a palatial room, large bed, wardrobes, nice bathroom, satellite TV and chandelier to boot. Now this was more our style, it was in fact one of the best rooms we'd seen. I asked the price and although it was more than double the last one offered it was still only $7, which makes it one of the cheapest rooms we've stayed in so far - result. I collected Mik and the bags and Andy and Klaire vowed to move there tomorrow.
I'd like to point out that I do realise that there will be times when these $3 rooms will be our only option, either due to lack of alternative, or because we are at the end of our budget and still have 6 months to go. Then it will be different and I'll be able to cope with such basic accommodation. (I hope)
We went out to get some food and being in the heart of backpacker area they cater for all needs. We really did mean to go out and sample local food but somehow the boys were up for a burger and we ended up in the 'Lazy Gecko' which claimed to make food like your Mum does. I decided to put this claim to the test and ordered some mashed potato, now it wasn't bad but nothing compared to yours Mum. The slice of very good banoffee pie did make up for it though. A few beers whilst watching the disappointing mens tennis final and that was our first evening in Cambodia. Very authentic - NOT!
The following day we felt we really should immerse ourselves more in the local culture and so headed off to the National Museum which was interesting, and the building it was housed in amazing. Really beautiful pagoda style building with gorgeous courtyard so we spent some time chilling there. Then we visited the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda - again very beautiful buildings with a distinctly Thai look to them. With a gold statue covered in diamonds - more bling than Chigwell!
Then we headed to the Foreign Correspondents Club for some happy hour drinks and a couple of games of pool on the river side. Now this place is gorgeous but can only be afforded during happy hour so we were there for exactly that period of time! I guess they must be used to that! Mik thrashed me at pool by the way.
On Tuesday we had a more somber day. We went to see the Killing Fields where over 17,000 bodies of those murdered by the Khmer Rouge have been found. They have a monument there for these people which houses the skulls which have been recovered. It's horrific to see. As you walk around the site where hundreds of mass graves have been uncovered you still see pieces of bone and clothing sticking out of the ground. This is bad enough in itself but when you then think about the fact that this only happened 30 years ago and was carried out by Cambodians, to Cambodians, it is incomprehensible. So many children were recruited by the Khmer Rouge and totally brainwashed into believing that killing by such brutal means was the way of life. Heartbreaking.
We then moved on to the S21 prison museum where the Khmer Rouge kept, tortured and killed over 20,000 people. Only 7 men escaped from this prison at the end of the Khmer Rouge regime and lived. They have since told of the atrocities which went on there. If the people weren't taken to the killing fields they died in their cells either due to starvation or the torture they all had to endure. A mind numbing experience. I guess in some cases you say why do the west get involved, Vietnam, Iraq, but in this case you actually have to say why didn't they. Why were the Khmer Rouge allowed to kill over 2 million of their own countrymen over a period of 4 years. Why were the leaders not found and tried, how could Pol Pot have lived in relative freedom in the highlands of Cambodia and Thailand until 1998 - nearly 20 years after the Vietnamese invaded and ended the Khmer Rouge regime. Madness, and very very sad. Especially when the guide explaining these things was herself affected and lost a great number of family members - some of whom she has, to this day, still no idea of their fate.
So whilst we are enjoying Cambodia so far it is also hard to imagine what the country has been through, and you just hope they can pull themselves back and put Cambodia on the map again. The place and the people have so much to offer. We were tempted to head to the beach as they are said to be beautiful however time is a ticking and we've decided to save the beach for Thailand and Malaysia. That's after we've just added some time in Laos into our schedule. Everyone is raving about the place and so we are headed there through northern Thailand, after Angkor Wat. We got our visa today. All these visas aren't cheap you know, some cost us our daily allowance. On those days we don't take tuc-tuc's, drink or eat - like hell we don't!
More once we have seen the wonderous temples of Angkor.
I'm off for a pedicure now.
Cara x
No comments:
Post a Comment