Cuzco

Cuzco, Peru

Arriving in Cuzco was great, a beautiful city with big main plaza complete with cathedral and many churches. The prices however weren't as welcoming. Having come from Bolivia I guess we were used to everything being relatively cheap, Peru however was turning out to be a bit of a shock on that front. We had a recommendation for a hostel which was lovely but at $25 a night was one of the most expensive places we have stayed. It was however run by a very friendly and helpful French lady who gave loads of info and our alternative way to Machu Picchu, which Mik will tell you about in the next installment.

Many people had told us how lovely the city was and that it was a place you could stay for a while. The central plaza and churches, cobbled streets and atmosphere certainly make it a great place to hang out - should the sun shine! Unfortunately for us the rain fell fairly consistantly while we were there. We were well aware that we were heading into this part of South America in rainy season, we just didn't realise what this meant here. Due to the high altitude which we have been at since we entered Bolivia when it rains it is also cold, especially at night. And of course the hostels we stay in don't have heating! Which means you can't go back to your room to warm up either. We took solace in a few cubra libras (fancy name for rum and coke), the local tipple.

e spent the day on Sunday in a small town just outside Cuzco called Pisac. It is well known for it's market which we wandered round for a while after watching the local Quechua people, in colourful traditional dress, call everyone to church using conch shells. There were loads of brightly coloured pochos and alpaca jumpers to be had, and although I managed to resist one of those I did quite fancy a nice alpaca blanket. Shame I had no room in my bag! In another area of the market they had a big kiln and were selling bread rolls, pies and .... guinea pigs, on sticks! Yep it's the local delicacy here, although we haven't quite been tempted to try one yet as they come whole, sticky out teeth and all!! The poor live ones must have known where they were headed.......

Later we headed up to see the Inca ruins located high above the village. We got a bit lost in the process and I ended up falling over in the mud at a particularly tricky bit and my language wasn't pleasant. I assumed no one around could understand me, until an American lady pointed out that maybe we hadn't chosen the easiest route. Oops!

In order to see these ruins we had to buy the 'Tourist Ticket' for the city. This entitles you to free entry to other sites of interest around Cuzco as well as museums. Apparently it also used to include the many churches and cathedral, but not anymore! In Keeping with the Spirit of the catholic church, the local archbishop decided he wasn't getting a big enough cut of the action and withdrew from the scheme to charge separately for visiting the Churches and cathedral. It also used to cost $10, now it costs $20! We did try to get our money's worth out of the ticket though by going to some of the museums included, unfortunately they were crap!

Cuzco a tourist trap - whatever gives you that idea. It was a real shame as it all left a bit of a sour taste in our mouths, but as we have figured out already the Peruvian government and people aren't interested in the long-term and keeping people coming in future, but purely in getting the money here and now. I guess they figure that as long as Machu Picchu is still standing people will come. Maybe they will, maybe they won't only time and feedback on the Lonely Planet website will tell!

The last day for me wasn't much fun as I was feeling the effects of a shepherds pie I'd had the day before. I knew the whole 'homecooked to an special Irish recipe' was a mistake. Should have gone for the guinea pig! I wasn't therefore looking forward to our overnight bus journey to Arequipa. God bless immodium.

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Guinea pig lovers and vegetarians look away now.

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Cara