With reference to Cara's last post, we never managed to make it to the My Son (pronounced Meesun) ruins that afternoon. The helpful folk at the hotel told us that although they had arranged for us to go in the afternoon and see the sunset over the site, the ruins themselves actually closed before sunset. This did not appear to be a problem for them, and they could not understand why we were a little put off by the whole thing. We rearranged the tour for the following morning, despite cutting it a little fine for our train, departing our hotel at 5am (yes folks, that is five o'clock in the morning) so we could get there for sunrise. A little dramatic I'm sure you'll agree, but well worth it we were assured. Can you see where this is going, yet ?
The next morning we were up and ready for 5AM!!! A time of the day that should surely be outlawed, sealed in a lead lined box and dropped to the bottom of the ocean. It was very dark outside, but the helpful folk at the hotel assured us the sun would be up in 15 minutes and we would be able to see everything. It was at this point we reminded them that it took an hour to get to the ruins. No emotion crossed their serene faces. We pointed out that if the sun came up in 15 minutes, and we wouldn't get there for an hour, it might prove to be a little difficult to see the sun rise. Again, not a flicker. They kindly pointed out that the sun would continue to rise until noon, and providing it wasn't cloudy, we would be able to see it.
You see, technically accurate but not enormously helpful.
Anyhoo, we went to the My Son ruins (apparently are a UNESCO world heritage site) which date back to the 4th century (so pre-date Angkor in Cambodia by many centuries) and are built amidst jungle coated mountainsides and valleys. They look spectacular, and were well worth the visit. Taking our private, air-conditioned car back to the hotel (flash gits), we just had enough time to get showered and changed before checking out and getting whisked off once more to Danang train station for our 16 hour journey to Hanoi. Zippedybloodydoodah !
And by the way, yes you can get some very cheap clothes in Hoi An, but 'tailormade' is being a little kind. 'Thrown together in a back room by somebody who has no intention of giving you what you requested' would be a more honest description. It seems that when it comes to business, once the transaction and price has been agreed, everything that comes after that becomes a chore and best avoided. I ordered a pair of baggy linen trousers and was given a small, pink, babygrow. Tell me that's good service !
It was in the taxi on the way to the train station that Cara, fast becoming known as Professor Hindsight, pointed out that if we had flown between Danang and Hanoi, it would have cost little more and saved us 15 hours. Fansoddingtastic ! I had a bit of a tantrum in the car at this insight and for the rest of the journey would only communicate in Swahili. As it turned out, the train journey was brilliant and I'm glad we did it rather than the plane. We had a couple of bunks in an air-conditioned compartment which we shared with a Vietnamese guy who worked for the Vietnamese Railways trade union, and an elderly Vietnamese lady who spoke no English and was visiting relatives in Hanoi. The compartments were very comfortable and we spent most of the day chatting away about stuff and watching the amazing scenery pass by the window. With the union chap interpreting, we learned how to haggle in Vietnamese and discovered some strange and unusual fruits that were getting passed around. Our ticket included dinner which was brought to us in the compartment which turned out to be very good. Union chap was a bit embarassed and felt the need to point out that Vietnam was a poor country and couldn't afford to provide food like we would be used to. I politely pointed out that we were from England, and British train food had recently been reclassified as a hazardous biotoxic waste product renowned thoughout the world as the most hideous mess ever to be offered for human consumption. He appreciated this very much and bought us some excellent spring rolls off a vendor on the train. After this, I slated British rail at every opportunity to see what else we could get out of him, but I wasn't further rewarded for my efforts. We ate a bit more fruitlike stuff before settling down to watch the sun set over the mountains and have a seriously long sleep. Next thing we knew we were in Hanoi and whisked off once more to our hotel. Marvellous stuff.
Finally, I feel obliged to tell you about my new hobby : Sweating.
I love it. I just can't stop. It seems like every single moment of the day I feel the need to sweat profusely. No ordinary light perspiration for me, oh no. I'm up for the full-throttle, spurt-out-of-your-forehead, look-like-I've-been-swimming kind of sweats. On the downside, my clothes get a little tacky very quickly. But on a positive note, if we ever get short of a few quid I can hire myself out as a sprinkler to water the local municipal parks. That's got to be worth something wherever we are.
I admit, it's not the cheapest hobby. Just to keep in basic raw materials I've had to get a local lake intravenously hooked up to my arm, which can impede movement somewhat. But this is more than made up for by the admiring glances I constantly receive from people as they step back to appreciate the walking waterfall passing them on the street.
This has been a bit of a longwinded write-up today, but Cara and I are having one of those days when we just can't be bothered dragging our sweaty backsides around some more temples. So here I am, killing a few hours and a few beers. I'll leave Cara to fill you in on what we've been up to in Hanoi some other time as she's currently back at the hotel having a nap. Bless. We have another early one tomorrow as we're off to Halong Bay for a bit of a cruise on an old junk for a few days. I'm not entirely sure why we insist on arranging these things for the crack of dawn every day, but there you go.
I'll get the photos up as soon as poss
Cheers for now
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